Saturday, 21 February 2015
Chokers, PVC and power dressing: Julien Macdonald does dominatrix for AW15 as Millie Mackintosh and Michelle Keegan watch from the star-studded front row
Julien
Macdonald is unapologetic about his love for high octane glamour, but
his AW15 collection was a departure from the usual feast of glitter and
sequins he's made his signature.
Indeed,
the Welsh designer and Strictly Come Dancing star isn't the first - and
won't be the last - designer to embrace gothic glamour in London this
season.
Julien's racy designs were overtly sexual yet maintained that sense of sophistication that makes him a red carpet favourite.
Welsh designer and Strictly Come Dancing star Julien Macdonald put on another stellar show in London
Dominatrix-esque models took to the runway wearing thick chokers, long black gloves and embellished luxe silks.
Dresses,
both long and short, came with peek-a-boo cutouts and were worn with
thigh-high leggings, ensuring the Julien woman garners attention for all
the right reasons.
Dominatrix-esque models took to the runway wearing thick chokers and embellished luxe silk
Julien's racy designs with cutaways
and plenty of sheer fabrics were overtly sexual but maintained that
sense of sophistication his clients love
Julien's
AW15 collection was a departure from the usual feast of glitter and
sequins but one dress, right, stuck to his signature style
Clearly
keeping his clientele in mind, his red carpet-ready dresses were
form-fitting and embellished with subtle smatterings of sequins.
His
beauty look, which FEMAIL witnessed being crafted backstage by
legendary Val Garland using L'Oreal Paris, was as glossy as his designs.
Skin was flawless and models were treated to a cashmere complexion, which was juxtaposed against high shine lids and lips.
'I took a tough Berlin chicness and relocated it into the world of Julien Macdonald,' she said backstage.
Hair supremo Syd Hayes completed the look by giving models' hair a perfect gel gloss over.
With
an exhaustive list of paparazzi favourites - including Rosie Fortescue,
Millie Mackintosh, Tamara Ecclestone, Rochelle Humes and Michelle
Keegan - occupying the front row, one thing's for sure: the designs
witnessed here today won't be hanging around Julien's showroom for
long.
(L to R) Tanya Burr, Alexa Goddard,
Marvin Humes, Vanessa White, Rochelle Humes, Millie Mackintosh, Whitney
Port, Ella Eyre, Michelle Keegan, Mary Charteris and Chelsea Leyland
watch from the front row
His beauty look, which FEMAIL
witnessed being crafted backstage by legendary Val Garland using L'Oreal
Paris, was as glossy as his designs
ELSEWHERE AT LONDON FASHION WEEK...
Markus Lupfer's enchanted woodland was the talk of town on Saturday - with a presentation complete with actual bunny rabbits.
Taking the prize for most aesthetically pleasing show space, flowers draped from the ceiling in Markus' secret garden.
Sports
luxe shapes, animal wood fabrics and trainers souped up with glitter
made up his collection, which, he says, is 'a bit mystical'.
Backstage Lucy Burt created a modern day fairytale heroine using Bobbi Brown's covetable collection.
'I've created a fresh, healthy glow but with a bold edge,' she explained to FEMAIL.
'The
skin is clean and youthful and I haven't picked up a single brush to
create the look; it's very organic,' she explained as she massaged the
brand's BB cream into the skin to create a flawless finish before
pinching a touch of Pot Rouge in Chocolate Cherry and Raspberry onto the
cheeks.
Lips
were also subject to a pinch of rouge, while lashes were clumped up
with Smokey Eye mascara and inky cobalt blue gel eyeliner.
Bumble
and Bumble's Ali Pirzadeh created the 'expensive cool' nonchalantly
tied ponytails, while Ciate pulled out woodland green as they key colour
when it came to adorning nails.
Backstage Lucy Burt crated a modern day fairytale heroine using Bobbi Brown's covetable collection
MARIANA JUNGMANN
Governed
by long sharp lines and jacquard cuts, Mariana Jungmann worked with
soft leathers that defined traditional feminine shapes.
Jungmann’s
signature use of Renaissance lace has evolved in her AW15 collection
through stitching techniques that constructed a bold yet fluid
appearance, which took to a great start to London Fashion Week on
Friday.
Using a combination of warm tones of black, teal and tan, Jungmann contrasts the natural shades with strong cuts and forms.
Laser cut textiles contrast with depressed imprints on leather textiles between pieces.
The
‘Hypnagogia’ collection works with these techniques while embracing the
modern businesswoman through some looks, and bold feminine eveningwear
in others.
Striking fur pieces worked with the long tailored lines that Jungmann adopted while the mixture of textiles was what stood out.
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